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Some of them have colour ghosts which implies the shots must have been taken consecutively. So I'm guessing one camera, three shots in very quick sucession? And asking the subjects to keep VERY still.

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but I came across this today (alerted to its existence via the book of faces) which contains a load of trichromie images from pre-WWI imperial russia - some of them quite remarkable:

http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/0 ... y_ago.html

They look identical to the calumet deluxe model (incidentally the type I broke).

I've only had one cable release break in-lens. I took it to mean I wasn't careful when packing it. Its a shame modern shutters don't have self-timers as in most cases you could do without the cable release. Personal preferences aside it has to be said that pragmatically certain focal lengths seem to...

Its also worth getting a cable release for each lens and leaving them on there permanently. Nothing worse than fiddling around in pre-dawn light with numb fingers trying to screw one in.

Tim, the comment on the front base tilt seems to match up with my brief experience of using someone elses camera with base tilt. Felt like trying to learn to drive again, only in a car where the steeringwheel operates the gearstick. Am I right in thinking on the Chamonix the front rise and tilt are ...

For landscape shots with no architectural elements (i.e. no castles or vertical trees) you can use rise/fall in combination with pointing the camera up or down to to make the foreground smaller or larger relative to the background. Probably not the best description but you can use this to emphasise ...

That one with the mist on the water is great.

For landscape most people want tilt, either front or rear. Front tilt means you can keep the back vertical for architecture. Back tilt doesn't eat up as much lens image circle - might be a consideration depending on what glass you're getting. Some rise/fall on either front or back is also very usefu...

hello have you still got the 10x8 dds, i tried pm you however there must be issues with the site as it stays in the outbox folder rather than the sent pm lol in my experience (and with no disrespect towards the mods), this happens fairly often - the message will go in the end regards andrew I seem ...

Shen Hao do a chamonix-copy the PTB which should be fine for 72-250mm. Not listed on robert white's website is also the XPO which is a recent design which I understand was developed at the request of a guy on the American LF forum, its a non folder that takes larger sinar boards/shutters. I seem to ...

One thing to remember is shooting large format isn't just a scaled-up facsimile of shooting digital or MF. So don't get too hung up focal length equivalencies. Just get something that does the 90-210 range ok and see how you go. LF cameras are always a trade off of useability/weight/presision/flexib...

Problem with film, seems unlikely but I'll try shooting some new in-date film alongside the expired (08/2011) stuff which I've been using. I'd be amazed if the film was the problem unless its been stored in an over or something. I've shot slide film over a decade old, uncertain storage, with no not...

Hi Paul I won't comment on specifics of your shot as its hard to say without seeing the film on a lightbox how bad it is. Raw scans do always look dark, that par for the course. However as far as metering goes I would bin the idea of finding the average reading between the lightest highlight and the...

The level of stock they held at mxv was huge too, and I sort of liked their quirky unsearchable website, made it feel like you earnt any bargains you found.