lf-photo.org.uk

Ok here goes, Google isn't much help.
Can I do wet plate with my Toyo field 5x4/modern copal lenses and can you modify standard darkslides to fit?
Not sure what I want to do yet (looks like a workshop is in order,) can I produce 5x4 glass negs and print them traditionally or are 5x4 positives and flatbed the way forward.
Where do you get the chemicals from and what do I need?

Many thanks

Ed

Yes to all of that...and a plug for John Brewer, who is a member here, offers great workshops...and sells all the chemistry etc.

http://www.johnbrewerphotography.com/we ... -workshops

A second recommendation for John Brewer.

Converting a 5x4 darkslide is simple to do, a small drill and a hacksaw should be sufficient, although you will probably not get a 5x4 image, more like a quarterplate size. You could also use trophy aluminium in a converted darkslide rather than glass for a positive image if you wanted. All covered on a workshop. There are also a number of youtube clips showing the wetplate process which might be worth searching for

Dave

Hi ed,

You can get 5x4 plate holders that fit a standard 5x4 camera back.
I have two made by MPP that take plates. Look exactly like my other MPP holders just the inside is different.
Yep chemistry best got from John, cheap for Silver Nitrate also. He also sells everything else.
Most wetplate workshops cover positive wetplate rather than negative which is a slightly different ballgame.

Although I share a studio with John I try to be impartial but he is very helpful and knowledgable.

Tony

John Brewer is a great one-stop-shop for education, chemistry and silver boxes (even lenses at times).

Most people seem to scan their plates before varnishing them as they scan better and there is a slight potential for the varnishing process to damage the plate.

Making wet plate negatives is slightly different than making positives if you intend to print using a historic process like albumen. I think that the albumen prints (possibly other alt processes) need a higher density of negative but I have never printed that way.
I have been printing from clear glass ambrotypes onto silver gelatin paper and I have been happy with the results. Crank the contrast a grade or so and they print great. After making any prints, I tend to black the glass to make it into a positive.
Printing success may depend upon the way that you develop and expose the plates, though. By choice, I tend to shoot darker like Carl Radford. John and Tony tend towards slightly brighter (denser) plates.
There can be a fair bit of variability in plates as the contrast of the collodion varies over time.

Many thanks for the input, looks like a workshop is in order just too explore the possibilities.
One last question, how much are the chemicals?

Silver will be your biggest expense. 100g £85
I think collodion was about £33.
Dev less again. £12? Thats off the top of my head prob wrong
You can use rapid fix.

But you'll also find you'll need a whole load of other stuff to make your life easier.

Hi Ed

the wet plate 'purists' would say that shooting with a modern shuttered optic somewhat defeats the purpose of trad wet pl photography but there's no reason why you cannot use this type of lens and perhaps move up to a more typical brass lens later

good luck anyhow and regards

andrew

And there'll be sometimes that that shutter will be a god send.

Fourtoes wrote:And there'll be sometimes that that shutter will be a god send.

uuh huh

regards

andrew

Andrew Plume wrote:Hi Ed

the wet plate 'purists' would say that shooting with a modern shuttered optic somewhat defeats the purpose of trad wet pl photography but there's no reason why you cannot use this type of lens and perhaps move up to a more typical brass lens later

good luck anyhow and regards

andrew

Older lenses do impart a certain something to the images. Modern optics are multi-coated which will stop a little of the UV transmission that the collodion is sensitive too, but go with what you want.

@ Andrew 'Purists' = Civil War re-enactors and I like the way you said move up to brass, so true

Ed, drop me an email via my website if I can be of help.

J

Hi John

thanks for your post - yep move up to brass

regards

andrew

John Brewer wrote:

Andrew Plume wrote:Hi Ed

the wet plate 'purists' would say that shooting with a modern shuttered optic somewhat defeats the purpose of trad wet pl photography but there's no reason why you cannot use this type of lens and perhaps move up to a more typical brass lens later

good luck anyhow and regards

andrew

Older lenses do impart a certain something to the images. Modern optics are multi-coated which will stop a little of the UV transmission that the collodion is sensitive too, but go with what you want.

@ Andrew 'Purists' = Civil War re-enactors and I like the way you said move up to brass, so true

Ed, drop me an email via my website if I can be of help.

J

Thanks john,

Will do...when I've got time