Ilford Delta 100 Dynamic Range

[Valerio Trigari]

Hi All,

does anyone of you know the effective dynamic range, in f-stops, for Ilford Delta 100 sheet film? I looked online, but except for people saying it has a rather wide latitude, I could not find any actual number.

Thank you!

Valerio

[Joanna Carter]

As with most B&W film, you could expect around 14 stops of latitude, but that would depend on how you expose and process the film.

The Zone System allows you to expand or compress available contrast range to fit the film anyway; it is usually the way that you are going to print the neg that determines how much you need to compress range.



This picture has a range of brightness, from the shadow of the bottom of the desk, to the sky through the window or the gas mantle, of around 13 stops. Because I was planning on only ever scanning the negative, I set the shadows in Zone 2 and the highlights in Zone 10. If you were planning on wet printing, you would more than likely need to use Zone 3 and 8 instead.

[Valerio Trigari]

Thanks Joanna!

Wow, so B&W negative has more dynamic range than the top of the range digital backs I'm used to about 6 f-stops on my Nikon D90, so I always had to use ND grads to bring everything within range. I guess now I'll use those filters much less then.

I always used and still use the Zone System, however I never did any N+1 or N-1 processing, as I worked with roll film, therefore I had to go for normal processing. Now that I'm working with sheet film though, I'm going to experiment on expanding and contracting the range.

Val

[Joanna Carter]

Wow, so B&W negative has more dynamic range than the top of the range digital backs

Now, is that comment worthy of banning you for mentioning the D word?

I'm used to about 6 f-stops on my Nikon D90, so I always had to use ND grads to bring everything within range. I guess now I'll use those filters much less then.

You have to remember that digital sensors are essentially colour devices, with about the same range as colour transparency film.

The only filters you tend to use with B&W are things like red, orange, yellow, green, etc; mainly for effects like darkening skies or separating tones of opposite colours.

I always used and still use the Zone System, however I never did any N+1 or N-1 processing, as I worked with roll film, therefore I had to go for normal processing. Now that I'm working with sheet film though, I'm going to experiment on expanding and contracting the range.

Oh yes, plenty of scope for improvement, as well as plenty of ways to make mistakes

[Valerio Trigari]

Now, is that comment worthy of banning you for mentioning the D word?

I actually meant that B&W film is much better than a £25,000+ electronic tool!

You have to remember that digital sensors are essentially colour devices, with about the same range as colour transparency film.

The only filters you tend to use with B&W are things like red, orange, yellow, green, etc; mainly for effects like darkening skies or separating tones of opposite colours.

I have the set of basic B&W filters from Lee (yellow, yellow-green, orange end light red), as well as the polariser. However, the set of hard and soft ND grads from Lee are always with me, just in case.

Oh yes, plenty of scope for improvement, as well as plenty of ways to make mistakes

We learn by our mistakes, don't we?

[dave_whatever]

You have to remember that digital sensors are essentially colour devices,…

Luckily I'm not a pendant or I'd pull you up on that statement…

[Joanna Carter]

I actually meant that B&W film is much better than a £25,000+ electronic tool!

Yeah, and, what's more, you actually have to think about what you are doing, rather than having a very expensive "point and shoot"

We learn by our mistakes, don't we?

IF you want any gash film, I have plenty to spare

You have to remember that digital sensors are essentially colour devices,…

Luckily I'm not a pendant or I'd pull you up on that statement…

Doh! OK, then I guess they are really three B&W devices?

[George Hart]

Joanna that's one of the best examples of "tonality" that I have seen from Delta 100. Can I ask you what you used for developer/dilution?

Best wishes,

George

[Neil Guss]

.

[Valerio Trigari]

Yeah, and, what's more, you actually have to think about what you are doing, rather than having a very expensive "point and shoot"

When you have only 6 available shots with you, you think twice before taking pictures like a machine gun!

IF you want any gash film, I have plenty to spare

What do you mean by "gash" film? Excuse my ignorance, but I don't know the meaning of the term...

[Joanna Carter]

Joanna that's one of the best examples of "tonality" that I have seen from Delta 100. Can I ask you what you used for developer/dilution?

I'm sorry to disillusion you George but that shot was taken on Fuji Acros, developed in Ilford DDX @ 1+9. But I would expect similar results from Delta 100.

Also, that is a really nice black and white example above.

Thanks Neil.

What do you mean by "gash" film? Excuse my ignorance, but I don't know the meaning of the term...

I'm sorry, "gash" is a term for film that has been spoiled, whether that be by accidental exposure or non-exposure or wrong exposure

[Valerio Trigari]

I'm sorry, "gash" is a term for film that has been spoiled, whether that be by accidental exposure or non-exposure or wrong exposure

It all makes sense now!

[Thingy]

I'm sorry to disillusion you George but that shot was taken on Fuji Acros, developed in Ilford DDX @ 1+9. But I would expect similar results from Delta 100.

What do you mean by "gash" film? Excuse my ignorance, but I don't know the meaning of the term...

I'm sorry, "gash" is a term for film that has been spoiled, whether that be by accidental exposure or non-exposure or wrong exposure

Joanna, How many minutes at 20C do you need to develop Acros in a DDX 1+9 dilution? I thought I would have a go at developing my own Acros.

Valerio, Gash in the Royal Navy means Food. Gash film to me therefore means edible film.....

[Joanna Carter]

Hi Steve

I used this article as a basis for the timings, taking the numbers for 24° in my Jobo.