Camera recommendations

[everedi]

I am new to LF photography and would like some advice on what camera(s) I should consider for the type of photography I undertake. I have been using a Bronica SQAi outfit and a few old folding MF cameras to photograph churches and landscapes. I don't photograph church interiors and I generally don't walk more than a few miles from the car. I would also be grateful for advice on what camera movements would be most useful for perspective control when photographing churches.

I have been reading previous posts asking for advice on which camera to buy however I am still a little confused. I am leaning towards the purchase of a used Sinar F1/F2 at the moment but would be grateful for any advice.

I can see, based on the reading I have done to date, that there is a huge learning curve when moving from MF to LF but I am very keen to get started.

[timparkin]

I am new to LF photography and would like some advice on what camera(s) I should consider for the type of photography I undertake. I have been using a Bronica SQAi outfit and a few old folding MF cameras to photograph churches and landscapes. I don't photograph church interiors and I generally don't walk more than a few miles from the car. I would also be grateful for advice on what camera movements would be most useful for perspective control when photographing churches.

I have been reading previous posts asking for advice on which camera to buy however I am still a little confused. I am leaning towards the purchase of a used Sinar F1/F2 at the moment but would be grateful for any advice.

I can see, based on the reading I have done to date, that there is a huge learning curve when moving from MF to LF but I am very keen to get started.

I would look for a camera which would allow you a large amount of front rise so that you can keep those steeples looking square. There are a lot of cameras that will satisfy this, the best value currently seems to be the Chamonix. A wide angle lens between 90 and 135 would be good if you want to get a picture with all of the church in but if you want to take details, a longer lens may be better (150 -240mm).

The Lens with the most movement capability is the 110 Schneider XL but it isn't cheap. The 90 f/5.6Schneider Super Angulon XL has a large image circle (allows lots of movements) and should be a bit cheaper as does the Fuji 105mm f/8

A long as you have an image circle over 180mm you should get enough movement to put lots of rise on .. hae a look at the lens tables here for info

http://www.ebonycamera.com/articles/lenses.html

and you might want to look at Kerry Thalmann's excellent list of possible future classic LF lenses..

http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/future.htm

The Sinar F1/F2 would allow you to do what you want but it may get a little cumbersome in the field.. It is nowhere near as portable as the Chamonix (or other field cameras discussed here) but it will be god value for money. If you are happy with carrying pelican boxes instead of a rucksack then the F2 will suit the task well (get the F1 if possible as it has separate locks for the rise/fall and tilt I think - check on this).

Hope that helps!

Tim

[joolsb]

I am new to LF photography and would like some advice on what camera(s) I should consider for the type of photography I undertake. I have been using a Bronica SQAi outfit and a few old folding MF cameras to photograph churches and landscapes. I don't photograph church interiors and I generally don't walk more than a few miles from the car. I would also be grateful for advice on what camera movements would be most useful for perspective control when photographing churches.

I have been reading previous posts asking for advice on which camera to buy however I am still a little confused. I am leaning towards the purchase of a used Sinar F1/F2 at the moment but would be grateful for any advice.

I can see, based on the reading I have done to date, that there is a huge learning curve when moving from MF to LF but I am very keen to get started.

For architecture, you generally don't need back movements (rear tilt or rear swing) as these will certainly distort perspective. Front shift (lateral and vertical) as well as some front tilt should be enough for most situations. Front swing might also help but is rarely needed, imo.

The other consideration is bellows draw – or the maximum and minimum focal lengths which the camera can accommodate. For churches, I guess you'd be using moderate wide to short tele therefore you'll need a camera which can handle lenses from 90mm to 180mm. Fortunately, your needs are fairly conservative so an entry-level lightweight field camera from Shen-Hao, Chamonix, Toyo, etc. - even Ebony - would fill your requirements.

A Sinar, although beautifully made and very precise, would be overkill. You won't need the range of movements or the bellows draw such a camera offers. They're also very heavy and not as easy to set up as a Chamonix or a non-folding Ebony since they are essentially designed for studio use. My own recommendation would be a Chamonix – they're inexpensive and easy to use. Or an Ebony if your pockets are a little deeper.

EDIT: B*gger. Tim beat me to it!

Still, we're basically in agreement, which is rare.

[lostlandsuk]

Hi - if you are new to LF then you shouldn't go crazy and buy the most expensive camera! The old Sinar F is a fine camera and can travel in a 22ltr rucksack compacted down onto the 6 inch rail, with the lens attached, and is still reasonably light. There's still tons of Sinar stuff out there at v reasonable prices, and though personally I would love to be able to afford a Chamonix or an Ebony I find it does for me, especially for learning. At the end of the day more money spent on a good lens is money better spent. I won't add in the comment I read somehwere about no matter the asthetic beauty of the camera, at the end of the day it is just a flexable light-tight box! . .. ooops, didn't mean to do that . . . .
I would also hasten to add that LF isn't for everyone, so a suck it and see attitude rather than full-blown investment might be the best route in.
That's just my twopenneth . .
Phil

[Bip]

Best to consider what you want to photograph first, and base your choice of camera on that. there are a lot of deals on ebay with bodies and lenses, modern and vintage, metal and wood, view and field.... i had no real advice when i started to collect bits and pieces of equipment, so i ended up with a Horseman 10x8 and a 360mm Db lens and a behind the lens shutter. then a Horseman 5x4. recently i have bought some great lenses at very generous prices from pro photographers who have switched to digital and want their kit to go to a good home! I bought a 240mm lens which covers the 10x8. A 6x9 Horseman back was a bargain although i need wider lenses. You discover what works as you go along and restricting your kit can help you find that out economically!
Blah blah blah!

[everedi]

Thank you for your replies.

I am still a bit confused with the choice but this probably reflects my ignorance of LF cameras generally. I have never used or handled an LF camera 'in the flesh' so I intend to visit a couple of used dealers in London to look at a few.

[Joanna Carter]

In some ways, a camera that is only good for photographing the outsides of churhes, may not be entirely suitable for landscape work.

I have found a great many churches that are surrounded by trees and that would benefit from something like a 58mm lens with lots of front rise. But that will depend on how far you can back get from the church.

Take a look at Mike Walker's range of cameras www.walkercameras.com ; they are relatively inexpensive and extremely rugged. The Titan can accomodate lenses from 47mm up to 400mm, and is only £1015.

I, personally, have an Ebony SV45Te, which I consider to be the ultimate in flexibility, although at a price

If you are anticipating most of your work being "in the field", I would not recommend a monorail - been there, designed the T-shirt

[gari]

There is a couple of cameras here that may be of use, the monorail would give you all the movement you could want and would be a good cheap start-up camera. Inside Europe too!

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/ ... hp?t=48843

Gari

[Peter B]

Take a look at Mike Walker's range of cameras www.walkercameras.com ; they are relatively inexpensive and extremely rugged. The Titan can accomodate lenses from 47mm up to 400mm, and is only £1015.

Is that not plus VAT Joanna, or is there a special deal still available?

[everedi]

I thought I would just update those who kindly replied to my original post that I have purchased a camera - at last!

I have decided to 'test the water' with a low cost purchase to see if LF is suitable for me. The camera is a Arca Swiss Pro 1 (which I have read on another post is a Model C). The camera is in excellent condition and came with a Schneider Xenar 180mm lens also in good condition, bag bellows, a darkcloth, lupe, three Fidelity darkslides, three boxes of film and an aluminim case. I paid £189 with postage for this and I am very pleased with the purchase.

If I find LF photography suits me then I will probably buy a field camera and at the moment The Walker Titan looks good value.

For now I have alot to learn and can't wait to get going!

[Dave Tolcher]

Brilliant news. If you need any help or are in the south coast or north yorkshire vicinity and would welcome a buddy for a shoot then let me know.

[Patrick Dixon]

Ahh, you won that one did you. I almost bid but missed the end - not that I needed it, but I've just acquired a similar one and though at that price it would be good to have some spares.

I reckon you got a bargain.

It seemed to me that this model is about as portable as a field camera when used with a short rail, and even more flexible in terms of movements etc. I'd like to get a shorter rail and the rail clamp (which mine doesn't have). I reckon it will compress down to about 280mm x 230mm x 150mm (with a 6 inch rail), and it's pretty light. I've got some Arca 171mm lens boards, but I intend to make one of them into an adapter to take Linhoff boards, which are smaller and will pack better.

So far I've just taken one shot to test it and a 210mm Symmar S out.