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Hi all
I've just loaded 6 acros 100's in to my new combiplan tank (thanks Mr Owen) ready to develop tomorrow. I haven't developed film in over ten years (back in the days of college and more hair ), so I'm a bit out of practice. Stop bath and fix are pretty straight forward but I need to know the correct mixture, development time, and temperature for Ilford ID-11.

Thanks

Sean

Hi Sean, according to the Ilford PDF the developing time for Fuji acros 100 is 6:45 minutes @ 20 degrees. You can look it up on their website for confirmation. Agitate for the first 5 seconds and there after every 30 seconds. Good luck and look forward to seeing the results.
John

hiya sean

tis good to hear you are back into b+w. this is a very useful site for times and different combinations etc. you can even download a copy to your phone too.

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

cheers

john

Sean, in addition to John's instructions, bear in mind that the CombiPlan tank takes almost exactly 30 seconds to fill I tend to start the timer at the second I start pouring in the dev; do a couple of inversions as soon as possible after sealing the inlet and then bang the tank on the worktop to dislodge bubbles. Make sure you unscrew the inlet spout a little to let air out as you are pouring in but don't forget to screw it up again before agitation.

When pouring out the dev, I release the cap on the top, invert the tank and then release the bottom cap to let the air in; this ensures that, in the thirty seconds it takes to empty, the bottom of the film, which got wet first, is out of the developer first, thus evening out the development over the whole film.

The stop and fix can simply be poured in at the top and out at the bottom.

After fixing, I usually take off the lid, release the bottom cap and let the tap run into the tank to provide a continuous wash flow.

Sorry to Hijack your post but do you have any trouble keeping the temperature constant or do you use a water bath Joanna.

gsphoto wrote:Sorry to Hijack your post but do you have any trouble keeping the temperature constant or do you use a water bath Joanna.

Since I would only be developing at 20°, I find that, by starting out with the the chemistry at around 21°, there really isn't a problem unless the room temperature is excessively cold or hot.

On the other hand, if I am processing E6 at 38°, I personally wouldn't consider hand developing although I gather that some folks are brave enough

john shiell wrote:Hi Sean, according to the Ilford PDF the developing time for Fuji acros 100 is 6:45 minutes @ 20 degrees. You can look it up on their website for confirmation. Agitate for the first 5 seconds and there after every 30 seconds. Good luck and look forward to seeing the results.
John

Is that 6:45 minutes in pure stock or diluted 1+1?, for some reason my computer wont download PDF's today
Thanks guys and girls
Sean

just had a quick look and it's stock.

Hi John
Just a quick dumbo question. Does stock mean the whole 1 liter of developer, if so could it be diluted 200 ml's as the CombiPlan takes 1200 ml's?
Cheers

Sean Lewis wrote:Hi John
Just a quick dumbo question. Does stock mean the whole 1 liter of developer, if so could it be diluted 200 ml's as the CombiPlan takes 1200 ml's?

The CombiPlan doesn't take 1200ml to cover 5x4, you only need 1000ml.

stock is the whole of the 1 litre, the other option is a 1:1 or 1:3 mix with water but ilford does not give a time for acros at these dilutions so it is not recommended.

Thanks John and Joanna, now for the plunge . Those CombiPlan tips are most helpful, cheers Joanna.

God that was hairy but they look o.k. so far. Thanks very much for your help and advice. One more thing though, can you use the developer twice or is it a one shot then throw away job?

Sean Lewis wrote:God that was hairy but they look o.k. so far. Thanks very much for your help and advice. One more thing though, can you use the developer twice or is it a one shot then throw away job?

Take a look at the Ilford site http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/pro ... Developers# and download the datasheet for ID-11 http://www.ilfordphoto.com/download.asp ... 182416.pdf. You should find that you can can develop up to 10 rolls of 135-36 film, that is, 40 sheets of 4x5. But if you look at the datasheet, you will see that they recommend increasing the development time by 10% after each 135-36 film, but I would think you could easily get away with after every 6 sheets

Well the negatives have turned out o.k. (it's good to smell those old smells again) but the scans look pretty disgusting. I'm off to sunny North Yorkshire next week so I'll suss it out when I get back.
Thanks folks
Sean