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Having posted some time ago that I was going to make a basic fixed focus 5x4 camera has not happened as I haven't been able to find a suitable back to start the project As I have a Sinar 10x8 back (standard) and 10x8 bellows (metering) that will not fit together I may as well use the back and upgrade my 'silly' project to 10x8.

The whole design of the wooden box width depends on what lens I slap on the front....As I don't have a suitable wide angle lens for 10x8 Has anyone got a spare 'slapper' wide angle lens that will cover 10x8 with no movements? Complete with shutter would be nice but again that doesn't have to be anything fancy.

Thanks Dave

I remember that project-

It's difficult to find a wide lens for 8x10-
a cheap wide lens, that is-

A 159mm Wollensack is about the most affordable-

If you felt like going down the LoFi route, you have a few more options-
think of it like a really large Holga-

This one looks interesting-

http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/pl1017.html

I've been tempted by it myself, but I have a few near equivalents-
and It's unfortunate that it is just a little bit large for a Copal 1.

It works out to be about ƒ/5 ish, but that could be tamed by homemade waterhouse stops or gel ND's, and slow film, or paper negs-
a card shutter is good for 1/10 sec, or less, depending on technique-

It should light up 8x10, though I've no idea how big the sharp bit will be-
but then again, sharpness is overrated...

Dave Dawson wrote:Having posted some time ago that I was going to make a basic fixed focus 5x4 camera has not happened as I haven't been able to find a suitable back to start the project

Whats the problems with making a back then? Shirley all you need is a recess to fit a darkslide if you're just on about shooting sheet film?

Probably different people have different ideas what a fixed focus camera consists of, consisting of anything from a dds held on the rear of the camera by two elastic bands and a make-shift viewfinder on the top of the camera.

I wan't a fixed focus camera that has a focusing screen and an International back for composing and seeing the DOF....thus I may incomperate my Sinar back for a 10x8 jobby.

When I say a 'cheap' lens....perhaps I should have said reasonably priced w.a. lens and not the silly prices people want on fleabay a 121mm SA or similar would be good.

Cheers Dave

Dave Dawson wrote:Probably different people have different ideas what a fixed focus camera consists of, consisting of anything from a dds held on the rear of the camera by two elastic bands and a make-shift viewfinder on the top of the camera.

I wan't a fixed focus camera that has a focusing screen and an International back for composing and seeing the DOF....thus I may incomperate my Sinar back for a 10x8 jobby.

I ask cos I was looking at knocking up a very light cheap 4x5 box camera for a project, which is not out of the (mental) drawing board phase yet. For a GG back I was going to take an old fidelity darkslide apart, remove the metal middle bit somehow and stick in a ground glass screen in the position the film sits. This screen woudl then in theory work on any camera. Then all I would need is a recess for the darkside at one end to accomodate the GG slide or a film holder, some kind of catch to hold them in (or a sturdy rubberband/bungee as you say), a box, and a lens shimmed for infinity or whatever.

I actually also have a back component off a horseman monorail that has graflock catches that I hope one day to put to some use on a home-made camera.

I made a 10x8 fixed focus camera using a 121mm Super Angulon lens. D.O.F is tremendous when stopped down.. It covers 10x8 but is a bit dark right in the corners.
As for the back, I used the same system as I used a few years ago on a 5x4 fixed focus camera.

1. The darkslide slides into a recess and is held in place by wooden strips - one across the top and the other across the bottom. These tighten down with threaded knobs.
2. The ground glass is housed in a wooden frame that has the same external dimensions as a darkslide. This is slid into the camera back first so the picture can be composed, then removed and the darkslide slid in and locked in place by tightening the knobs.

I use exactly the same system in my regular (home made) 5x4 camera. In fact I use the same ground glass 0n both 5x4 cameras. The system is very simple to construct, simple and quick to use and is fully light-tight.

Alan Clark