Is there any point in using an 80C for scanned Pro 160?

[Marizu]

I need to do some indoor shooting under some tungsten lighting.
I have an 80C filter knocking around. It definitely won't neutralise the cast so I was wondering whether it's worth bothering to use it at all.
Some of my images will have the light source in them, indeed one of the pictures will be of an illuminated light.

Obviously, I can colour correct the scan in post but I wondered whether I would get better results by utilising the filter.

Thanks in advance for any input.

[IanG]

Well Fuji recommend using an 80A for Tungsten lighting, so an 80C would be better than nothing, there's some latitude when scanning or conventional printing.

Ian

[Marizu]

Just to update the thread for future reference.
I didn't actually try this because most of the exposures that I made were 40 to 90 minutes long.
Sticking the 80C in front would have taken them out by one stop, increasing exposure by... loads?

When I have finished developing and scanning and evaluating my films, I'll put a post up about my experience with extreme exposure times on Pro160NC in case anybody else ever finds themselves in that kind of mess.

[timparkin]

Just to update the thread for future reference.
I didn't actually try this because most of the exposures that I made were 40 to 90 minutes long.
Sticking the 80C in front would have taken them out by one stop, increasing exposure by... loads?

When I have finished developing and scanning and evaluating my films, I'll put a post up about my experience with extreme exposure times on Pro160NC in case anybody else ever finds themselves in that kind of mess.

I wouldn't bother with this unless you plan to make darkroom enlargements. Even then, the difference can probably be dailled out with a filter pack