lf-photo.org.uk

An earlier thread

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3012

discussed the DIY approach to cutting lens boards, but no one had any suggestions about places in the UK who could do it. (I know someone who can in the US.) Given that the board I have is aluminium and I need a precision rebore (from 41.6mm Copal 1 out to the rather unusual size of 52.5mm for Compur 2), I'd rather have someone else do it. It's quicker than the hacksaw/visit to casualty/then decide to pay someone else to do it route. Any suggestions of specific places that could do the job would be much appreciated.

Kind regards

David.

Anyone with a metal workshop should be able to do it (school/college etc), but it should be managable with a file and a bit of elbowgrease. If there's already a hole cut then widening it out should be the easy bit.

There's a chap up the road, whom I employ for these jobs. I'd guess £10 + postage to and from London - pm if you want help. I know there are people on the forum who can do it. As Dave says, workshops and anywhere advertising precision engineering can help.
Good luck!
Charles

Thanks Charles. I will PM you if none of the forum regulars respond - £10 is pretty reasonable.

Kind regards

David.

Hello from France !

For those of ouf readers who would like to do this boring job by themselves, Jean-Baptiste Maison has written an article on the subject on our French MF-LF web site. This is a frequently asked question among LF users, so it is good to share here all available resources for that.
"Élargir le trou d'une planchette porte-objectif à un diamètre plus grand"
http://www.galerie-photo.com/elargir-trou-planchette-objectif.html
The text is in French but the images, hopefully are self-explanatory and Jean-Baptiste will be glad to answer any question.
Jean-Baptiste's method is very safe and efficient and does not need any professional machine-tool. It is based on a small Dremel(TM) drill fitted with a special drilling tool that "cuts' on its side, unlike regular drills for metal which only remove metal from their tip. the Dremel drill is guided like a drafting compass, the centre being defined by a hole in a piece of wood underneath the lens board to be bored (or the lens bore to be board, if you prefer).

CAVEATS ! Using some boring tool directly mounted on an electric drill might be dangerous for those not aware of important safety precautions for machining thin metal parts. Jean-Baptiste's method is, by slowly removing small amounts of metal, is extremely safe and delivers a very nice result, although of course not as "clean" as a professional machine-tool would do, but perfect for our use as a LF addict.

The best professional method nowadays involves an electro-discharge machine-tool (EDM), able to precisely cut any thickness of any hard metal, any shape. This is an amazing technique but of course out of reach for the hobbyist. However many small enterprises do use those kinds of EDM machines and could do the job for you.

If you can find one (and I collect and use them), the easiest answer is to use a 'Universal iris', such as shown here in a current big auction site listing:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110856968607? ... 1438.l2649

regards

andrew

Hi All,

The easiest way is to get someone to bore the panel out for you!

As a plug, have a look at my recent posting about lens flanges. I hope to do another post soon, about making a series of new panels for my Zeiss Universal Jewel B.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=3329

Susie

Know anyone with a metal lathe with a faceplate?

Attach lensboard to a piece of thin MDF with strong double sided tape and attach the board to the faceplate in the same way. Use a short (i.e. not tall) hss toolbit ground with a narrow cutting edge and with plenty of side relief (taper, narrow at bottom) both sides, then take light cuts.

Works for me on thick plastic, so should be fine on thin metal.

Steve