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I would like to try contact printing Large format negs on printing out paper so I need to know where I can purchase a good split back contact printing frame in the UK. Any ideas please, I have tried Silverprint no joy.

Hello,

Linhof & Studio sell Lotus contact printing frames. They are very good but extremely expensive. If you can't find a second hand one. I suspect your only option is to get one from the USA. Someone like Bostick & Sullivan. They do need a good spring back.


Barry

I think retro photographic used to have printing frames....
Worth checking.

Marc

Thanks for the info I looked at the Linhof web site and you are right the contact printing frames are extremely expensive. I could not see anything listed on the Retro site so it looks like I will have to buy from the US.

Roger

Hello Roger,
It's worth calling Nigel Dear at Retro to ask for his opinion and see what he has lurking around.
Charles

I picked a vintage Kodak 14x11" in perfect order for £21 on eBay just last month.

Patience is the key!

A friend bought a Retro printing frame for a workshop with Kerik Kouklis held at my place - the frame was useless and I am sure was returned. Tim subsequently got one new off ebay but I use an old Kodak one which is rock solid.

Carl

jollyroger wrote:I would like to try contact printing Large format negs on printing out paper so I need to know where I can purchase a good split back contact printing frame in the UK. Any ideas please, I have tried Silverprint no joy.

Which paper are you using?

Hi
I am going to use Kentmere Centennial POP, I am thinking about using a light box and a sheet of glass if I cannot find a good contact frame any ideas.

Roger

It's some time since I had the opportunity to use Centennial POP. I used it in a split back printing frame to try to judge the exposure. I exposed it in sunlight.

Toning POP in Selenium bleaches the paper significantly, I found Gold the best. I seem to remember that fixing also causes some bleaching. Perhaps someone who has used it recently can advise.

You may find it too slow for a light box but I would be interested in hearing how it worked. Worth a try.

BTW Some so called printing frames are just picture frames with spring clips at the back. They do not work very well.

Barry

Most of my printing frames were found on ebay - as "old picture frame"!

I use POP too - from Retro Photographic. I'm sure it's the same as Centennial, and Chicago Albumen Works.

The problem with selenium toner is that it contains a lot of ammonium thiosulphate, which bleaches the print.
That same stuff is also found in rapid fixers, with exactly the same result. So use only sodium thiosulphate to fix POP prints. The tone of the print changes in the fixer unless you have toned it first.

Gold toning works well, I use Tetenal gold toner simply because it's available locally, and lasts a long time. Toning before or after fixing gives different results underways, but the end result after toning to completion is pretty much the same. I usually tone after fixing, since that gives me the option of bleaching back the highlights a little if they're "muddy". I do this with rapid fixer (ammonium thiosulphate) at very high dilution - something like 10ml of film-strength fixer in a whole liter of water. That's enough!

BTW, Retro Photographic - http://www.retrophotographic.com/ - has one of my POP prints on their website.

Hi Jollyroger, I was looking for something else and came across this, not sure if its any use to you. They may have other sizes.

Gari

http://www.thedarkroom.co.uk/products_c ... b08f92c8a8

Gari

Thanks for the link I will give them a call. Only problem I can see with the frame is that does not apear to have a spring back. Cheers.

Roger

BarryWilkinson wrote: Toning POP in Selenium bleaches the paper significantly, I found Gold the best. I seem to remember that fixing also causes some bleaching. Perhaps someone who has used it recently can advise.
Barry

Barry, I experimented a bit and letting the selenium (VERY weak solution) air for a day or so helps a lot; at least with my Vandyke prints I get very very slow toning, and almost no bleach whatsoever. My conclusion was that the ammonium components evaporated and left a solution that probably wouldn't tone a full fledged silver print, but was enough to fit the purpose...

That's interesting Buze. I hope to try some more POP later this year, I'll give your idea a go.

Barry