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I am interested in using my LF field camera with fill e-Flash. Is it possible to interface these technologies or does one have to rely upon the human interface.
Having tried a couple of searches without success, both here and Go Ogle, I was wondering if anyone could shed some light (ouch!) or point me to a URL.
Thanks.

As long as the camera's lens shutter has X flash sync you can use fill-in flash, either by manual calculation or some automatic flashguns are quite capable of fill-in flash.

Remember LF lenses are slower & usually need stopping down a little so a good powerful flashgun is essential.

Ian

Thanks for getting back to me.

IanG wrote:Remember LF lenses are slower ...
Ian

1. Not wishing to sound like a pedant, but could you explain what you mean by slower, and ...
2. ... exposing my ignorance, is it possible to interface 'modern day' strobes/ flash with LF shutters ?

I have 2 lens with X connections: a Rodenstock Sironar-N 150mm f5.6, and a Sinar Sinaron-S 210mm f5.6. I reckon the latter FL would lend itself more to portraiture.

I've been doing a bit of environmental and fine art portraiture of late using flash (D200 SLR and SB-800's wireless) and wanted to have a go with my LF field camera, a Toyo 45A, having seen some stunning portraiture by Michel Comte (et al) at the LUMAS Editions Gallery in Cologne last weekend.

You can look on http://www.lumas.de and click on Masters if you are interested. There is other remarkable LF work on the site.

Thanks.

Continuing the research I have sourced a couple of bits at SpeedGraphic:

Hot Shoe Trigger Slave : http://www.speedgraphic.co.uk/prod.asp? ... ve+Trigger , with a ...

... PC to PC Plug Lead : http://www.speedgraphic.co.uk/prod.asp? ... oiled+Lead
This all looks a bit OTT.

Alternatively, a more simple possibility might be:
Hotshoe to PC lead http://www.speedgraphic.co.uk/prod.asp? ... 2D+PC+Cord
Therefore, if a Nikon SB strobe, and de facto a Nikon wireless controller (the R1C1 ), could be triggered while mounted on a Hotshoe to PC cable as above, with the cable connected to the LF Copal X connector, I think I could be in business.

Digital digression
I always use my D200 in fully Manual Mode and control my strobes' power outputs and channels through the hotshoe mounted Nikon wireless controller, R1C1. The camera is used solely to manually control WB, ISO, shutter-speed, and aperture. I never use a handheld light meter for this and rely solely on the camera's preview screen and histogram for feedback. This does not sound very elegant but it is very reliable, quick, and easy. I simply adjust my strobe lighting power ratios on the wireless controller. After minimal practice interpretting ambient light and camera feedback via LCD screen and histrograms it is suprising how accurate your initial setting estimates become. You soon frequently reach the optimum/ desired lighting ratios after two or three test firings.

Back to LF
I may continue to prep this way even with LF, or I may have to use the tried and trusted hand-held light meter methodology. I have a Sekonic I use with my LF and MF gear when out in the field.

I don't know if the SB800 is really powerful enough even for fill-in with LF as typically we use f22 or slower – but perhaps you shoot wider open – but as long as you can connect the flash unit to a PC socket it will "work".

All the fancy electronics will be wasted though! You would be best reverting to your Sekonic meter, assuming it's one of the hybrid flash/ambient types. Something like an old hammerhead Metz 70-series unit which you could probably pick up on eBay for the price of all the various fancy Nikon adaptors would give you more light – and less complication.


Richard

It's a lot of messing around but you could use the Nikon camera and flashgun as a lightmeter but you'dhave to take everything with it set on manual (you can't let the electronics "tweak" the power levels to something you can't replicate with LF.) It would be slow and I doubt your model/sitter would be very tolerant of the timescales.

If you've got the handheld meter, that's probably your best option with the hotshoe to PC cord adaptor you've found (assuming the SB unit doesn't have a PC cable built in.) The 210mm lens should give you a decent focal length to start for environmental portraits - AFAIR head shots are taken with longer FLs (360mm?) Watch out for any bellows extension if your subject is reasonably close which would need extra exposure.

One of my old gossen meters used to measure the flash output and then you'd tell it what aperture you wanted and it would tell you how many times you had to fire the flash per picture. It quickly got into high numbers so I guess this could be awkward for portraiture and keeping the subject still and balancing ambient and flash light.

Andrew

Nimy Hi

Your second & Third posts had it right - PC to Hot Shoe adaptor to trigger your wireless controller - SB800 positioned wherever you like ( as long as it is in range) - A diffuser can be used on the flash to cut down the harsh light.

Expose for Portrait without flash - just use the flash as fill (or a reflector) - Try both of your lenses at F5.6 or F8 - for portraits you do not need a lot of in focus depth - Last of all EXPERIMENT !!

If you have a roll film back for your 5x4 it makes it cheaper - A polaroid Back is instant but more expensive - but most of all enjoy yourself - discover what works for you.

I am a retired Portrait & Wedding photographer have used various film and digital cameras for many years to earn my living - Now I still do a few portraits and weddings (using Digital) and for fun take my 5x4 camera into the countryside to photograph landscape or whatever takes my fancy.

Hope this helps

Brian

All, thanks for input.

Brian,

Thanks for confirming my thoughts, I have ordered a PC to Hot Shoe flash this morning.

I am all for experimenting, that's how I've developed my workflow with the D200, R1C1, and SB800's.

Yes, I have a 5x4 adapter for my Mamiya 120 film back. Good suggestion to experiment with, thanks.

Brian,

I forgot to add that I don't always expose for the subject in ambient light, ie without flash. I have had interesting results (experimenting yet again !) underexposing a couple of stops and 'building' depth into a picture with lighting. I only use camera strobes (SB800's and 200's off-camera), controlled remotely by the R1C1 control module. The D200 is fully manual, independent from the flash system, merely acting as trigger; my portable studio as call it.

The proprietary NIKON CLS system is first rate, and it made me think about trying to adapt it to LF. I disagree a little bit with Richard's previous post; about the " fancy electronincs being wasted". If I can just achieve the missing-link, i.e. the trigger from copal shutter to Hot-shoe, the CLS system maintains all the functionality I require. Fingers crossed.

Nimy

It should work just fine - PC to Hotshoe to trigger Controller and as many other flashes as you like - You could use you Digital Camera as a polaroid to check all is working as you want (Instant Playback) - Lighting should work the same for both cameras - Only quality and that "Film FEEL" will make the largeformat results stand out.

Have fun

Brian

Thanks Brian, I too had thought about Poloroid. I have a 545 Pro for the rare occasion I use quickload and then realised I had a practicable alternate in my DSLR, which is also much kinder on the pocket for consumables.

The Lumas exhibition, linked earlier, had some stunning LF stuff from various genre and although I draw much pleasure from shooting out in the great outdoors, landscape photography is one small fraction of the potential for this medium.

Can't wait to start this challenge. I am not one who's big into Christmas so, post willing, I'll have a nice little project for the festering season.

I would be interested to read about people's experiences using film (type, speed, and filters) they have used whilst using flash or other 'unnatural' lighting.