Tips for a first time slide user?
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 12:26 pm Etc/GMT-1+01:00
I usually shoot B+W which I develop and enlarge myself but I must of had a bump to the head at some point because all of a sudden I have the urge to shoot some colour.
This is what I have armed myself with so far -
Velvia 50, Velvia 100 and a box of Provia 100.
Filters - ND grads (soft) from .3 to .9 and a polariser.
Film -
I know I could of made it easier on myself by using colour neg but thats for wimps
Joanna mentioned in another post that different slide films have different exposure latitudes (thats the first thing I've learnt).
So when people say that a film has a 4 stop latitude is that measured from black to white (eg zone 1 to 10)? If so then how do you find and meter a highlight area that you want to keep detail in (eg zone 7)?
Metering -
I use a Sekonic 758L spot meter and I was planning on using the average function.
eg Meter the important area of a scene and average it, then check that detail in the dark areas are not blocked by placing them -2 stops under, then use grad ND's to lower the highlight area so the brightest area is no more than 2 stops over. Does this sound about right?
I'd appreciate any comments or advice with this.
Thanks
Mike
This is what I have armed myself with so far -
Velvia 50, Velvia 100 and a box of Provia 100.
Filters - ND grads (soft) from .3 to .9 and a polariser.
Film -
I know I could of made it easier on myself by using colour neg but thats for wimps
Joanna mentioned in another post that different slide films have different exposure latitudes (thats the first thing I've learnt).
So when people say that a film has a 4 stop latitude is that measured from black to white (eg zone 1 to 10)? If so then how do you find and meter a highlight area that you want to keep detail in (eg zone 7)?
Metering -
I use a Sekonic 758L spot meter and I was planning on using the average function.
eg Meter the important area of a scene and average it, then check that detail in the dark areas are not blocked by placing them -2 stops under, then use grad ND's to lower the highlight area so the brightest area is no more than 2 stops over. Does this sound about right?
I'd appreciate any comments or advice with this.
Thanks
Mike