Hello All,
This was taken at South West Rock, NSW.
Exposure was taken (spot meter) on the shadow area and the reading was set directly onto shutter without any compensations since I had a polariser on to take away the glares.
Any comments welcome.
Regards
Chong
"Sea Moon Rocks"
-
- Founder
- Posts: 1283
- Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:26 pm Etc/GMT-1+01:00
- Workshop Images: http://grandes-images.com/fr/Paysages/P ... _2009.html
- Location: Plestin-les-Grèves, France
- Contact:
Re: "Sea Moon Rocks"
This is a technique that Helen uses with B&W, when using an orange filter; the reading coincides with zone 3, so "correct" exposure without filter would be to under-expose by two stops; however the filter requires two stops of compensation so just apply the reading directly.Chong wrote:Exposure was taken (spot meter) on the shadow area and the reading was set directly onto shutter without any compensations since I had a polariser on to take away the glares.
Just one question; is this something you remember instinctively, every time, or do you still find yourself working it through?
Hi Jo,
Overhere in OZ, the vast landscapes are blessed with plenty of sunshine and inherently alot of glares. If I am shooting in afternoon sun, 99% of the time I would have the polariser on. Since I always meter the shadow, and to think of it, it does become instinctive now. I do confirm the meter exposure by reading an area which I feel is 18% grey.
Try it next time and you will be surprised it is fairly realible. However, in eveing light when the sun is low, you need only to compensate by 1 stop (through experience).
Regards
Chong
Overhere in OZ, the vast landscapes are blessed with plenty of sunshine and inherently alot of glares. If I am shooting in afternoon sun, 99% of the time I would have the polariser on. Since I always meter the shadow, and to think of it, it does become instinctive now. I do confirm the meter exposure by reading an area which I feel is 18% grey.
Try it next time and you will be surprised it is fairly realible. However, in eveing light when the sun is low, you need only to compensate by 1 stop (through experience).
Regards
Chong
-
- Founder
- Posts: 231
- Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:49 pm Etc/GMT-1+01:00
- Location: Manchester, UK
- Contact:
Chong, Jo,
the old Weston Master series of meters had a setting for "High Tone" and "Shadow" readings, which were about two stops up or down, respectively. The recommendation was to meter for shadows with Trannie film, because you could live with blown hioghlights a bit easier on that.
I think Hicks was extolling this feature on a few AP articles a few years ago. Can't find them right now, though.
Marc
the old Weston Master series of meters had a setting for "High Tone" and "Shadow" readings, which were about two stops up or down, respectively. The recommendation was to meter for shadows with Trannie film, because you could live with blown hioghlights a bit easier on that.
I think Hicks was extolling this feature on a few AP articles a few years ago. Can't find them right now, though.
Marc
Real Photographers use METAL cameras.....
...and break their backs in the process...
http://homepage.mac.com/mjjs/Photography/
...and break their backs in the process...
http://homepage.mac.com/mjjs/Photography/