Rocks formation at Yamba, NSW, Australia
Rocks formation at Yamba, NSW, Australia
Hello All,
This was taken at Yamba. Interesting rocks formation. What do you think?
Thanks
Chong
This was taken at Yamba. Interesting rocks formation. What do you think?
Thanks
Chong
-
- Founder
- Posts: 721
- Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 6:33 pm Etc/GMT-1+01:00
- Location: Cleveland
- Contact:
Of the three this is the one I find easiest to appreciate, perhaps being closer to my concerns. I must admit not understanding the Craster photo one bit. In contrast, with these rocks, I can see a composition, I can see a study of foreground rocks counterbalanced by some scenery. Everything that matters to the picture is within the frame. I like it.
We're all different, but I hope that helps.
Charles
We're all different, but I hope that helps.
Charles
-
- Founder
- Posts: 721
- Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 6:33 pm Etc/GMT-1+01:00
- Location: Cleveland
- Contact:
Hi Gari,
There is an irony in seeing the signature which follows your message: you need vision indeed!
Well, what's strange is that I can't see any of the pics until I copy the URL into another tab of my browser. The pic then appears in both that tab AND on the forum page. One for the technical guys to fathom...
Charles
There is an irony in seeing the signature which follows your message: you need vision indeed!
Well, what's strange is that I can't see any of the pics until I copy the URL into another tab of my browser. The pic then appears in both that tab AND on the forum page. One for the technical guys to fathom...
Charles
-
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 6:09 pm Etc/GMT-1+01:00
- Location: Great Ayton N YORKS
-
- Forum Hero
- Posts: 300
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 2:00 pm Etc/GMT-1+01:00
- Location: Aviemore, Scotland
- Contact:
I can see this one fine too now, I may have to change my signature to "you need your'e ibook"
Again, well balanced, the eye is led through the frame nicely. On my screen the hilights look to have gone a little(I don't calibrate this screen as I only use it for the net and watching movies etc) so could be my end.
What film do you use and where do you place your hilights?
I like the blue, it has a cold/fresh feel to it, is that the rock or the light in the shadows?
Gari
Again, well balanced, the eye is led through the frame nicely. On my screen the hilights look to have gone a little(I don't calibrate this screen as I only use it for the net and watching movies etc) so could be my end.
What film do you use and where do you place your hilights?
I like the blue, it has a cold/fresh feel to it, is that the rock or the light in the shadows?
Gari
you don't need eyes to see, you need vision!
Hi Gari,
This was taken on Kodak 100S (4x5). I had to wait for half an hour for the sun to be covered for this shot. Even then I had only 30 seconds to grap 2 shots. It was a sunny day (blue sky) and the rocks were just situated behind a hill and with lots of tree shadows casted on it.
For metering, I used Minolta spotmeter F and I would usually meter for darkish part of the scene, i.e. rock with darker shade then the rest in the scene and placed this at Zone III. Basically, I just close 2 stops under and if I have a polariser on then no adjustment needed, like in this case. I have found that this work wonderfully well for me upto before evening light start setting in. For evening light I found that placing the shadow at Zone IV works better, i.e. close one stop. I know people always say that for transparencies meter for high light and the shadow will take care of itself but for me I found the other way round works better for me. It works for me so I stick with it.
Regards
Chong
This was taken on Kodak 100S (4x5). I had to wait for half an hour for the sun to be covered for this shot. Even then I had only 30 seconds to grap 2 shots. It was a sunny day (blue sky) and the rocks were just situated behind a hill and with lots of tree shadows casted on it.
For metering, I used Minolta spotmeter F and I would usually meter for darkish part of the scene, i.e. rock with darker shade then the rest in the scene and placed this at Zone III. Basically, I just close 2 stops under and if I have a polariser on then no adjustment needed, like in this case. I have found that this work wonderfully well for me upto before evening light start setting in. For evening light I found that placing the shadow at Zone IV works better, i.e. close one stop. I know people always say that for transparencies meter for high light and the shadow will take care of itself but for me I found the other way round works better for me. It works for me so I stick with it.
Regards
Chong