dave_whatever wrote:Alright Tim.
Been kind of interesting following this debate on the US forum. On one hand it does seem interesting to do a proper test in a kind of bored-and-sat-at-work way, but on the other hand I might be tempted to think we could do without getting bogged down in technical semantics for the sake of it. This is supposed to be art not science afterall, film and digital are different and more importantly than resolution they have different looks, and different ways the fine detail and grain manifest themselves (but I expect you're aware of this as much as anyone).
Absolutely - a photographer needs to take into account more than just resolution. However, resolution is a concern for many photographers (rightly or wrongly). For instance, I've got a job to produce a 10m x 5m print which people will be walking right up to to 'pixel peep' a view. This isn't going to happen that often and fortunately they want a new image rather than an existing one. If I was shooting 645 film I would struggle, 4x5 would probably do OK and 10x8 is optimum for this. Knowing whether it would make sense to hire a Phase IQ180 or P45+ would be useful information.
dave_whatever wrote:- Tests should clearly state the cost of all the clobber used in each mode of capture, which should put any results into context. Also factor in resale value of kit, depeciation etc. It would maybe also be useful to compare a cost-per-banger, assuming the Ansel Adams output rate of one shot of 12 shots you're truly happy with per year, and allowing for whatever the percieved professional lifespan of a MF digital back is (2-3 years before you have to be seen to be shooting the most recent gear?). I don't think this output rate is too far off the mark for fine art work (maybe ask Joe?) - OK you could argue that a professional shooting a digital back needs to produce more than 36 keepers over 3 years, which is undoubtedly true if they're shooting for advertising/corporate/stock, but this area is hardly the mainstay of film shooters anymore so there's got to be some give or take! You've got to make each medium to have to play both home and away in this test. Similarly you could do the maths on shooting 10x8 where you need to churn out 500 hits per day's shooting....
Agreed - but this is all relative again isn't it. Someone has already mentioned that they used to charge clients for film and developing and so it was never a relevant cost. Digital shooters will always shoot more pictures and hence you can't compare their current output with what they would have shot on film. I'll try to put a few figures down though
dave_whatever wrote:- Total comparable kit weight of all the field gear in each case should be stated.
For what cameras?

My Toyo isn't the lightest field camera..
dave_whatever wrote:- Some real life comments on practicality, logistics and time constraints of the peripherals when shooting in the field - i.e. realities of reloading holders, charging batteries, downloading files onto laptops etc.
Yep - Joe can comment on this as he has used both for some time.
dave_whatever wrote:- Lets have some tests in British weather, mud, wind, pissing rain etc.
Again, Joe has produce a video showing the P45+ being used in these weather conditions so we'll get his comments
dave_whatever wrote:- Would be interesting to actually compare some final results, i.e. prints, rather than just pixel peeping. Also get some non-photographers to compare results, some people who don't have a vested interest. Punters off the street, people's mums, fine art print buyers etc. And it doesn't have to be massive prints either, realistic art-print sizes (20x16"?) would also be fine for comparing the "look". If you really want to go to town, throw in a few goog enlarger prints from 18x0 print film, or even a cibachrome or two.
Agreed - I would love a print so I'm going to create small prints and then extract sections to print at full resolution and also finally I'll cut out a 35m or MF section from the centre of a print and do a darkroom enlargement. I've also bought a microscope to actually check what is on the film itself.
dave_whatever wrote:- Might also be intersting to also compare the drumscanned 10x8 and the IQ180 to the results you can get out of a consumer flatbed (i.e. your v750, wetmounted). This might make the comparison a bit more relevant to your average 10x8 landscape shooter, who like most of us will never afford or need a MF digital back but likes to see how their cheapo setup compares.
dave_whatever wrote:- Can you get hold of a 4x5 scanning back too?
Sadly not but I think the real limitations of the scanning back make their use all but studio work moot.
dave_whatever wrote:- I wouldn't get too hung up on shadow detail, afterall images often need some black areas, bit of mystery.
I'll go for highlight detail instead
dave_whatever wrote:- Try and devise a "gratification" rating and tactile enjoyment factor to evaluate how much fun shooting with each setup it - afterall, we do this for enjoyment don't we?
heh.. Well that is all opinion isn't it. Some people will enjoy the IQ180 best as they get to feel rich and special because they have bought something no-one else can afford. Other people may feel morally superior for having carried a 30kg camera kit into the mountains or because they have saved a stupendous amount of money. etc.
dave_whatever wrote:I do think however that its always going to be a bit of a funny comparison, as I suspect most 10x8 art shooters will never want or afford an IQ180, and most shooters who feel the need for an IQ180 will always find something in their results to justify their purchase (who actually ever admits to having wasted tens of thousands of pounds?). So I suspect that regardless of the results, probably advocates of either mode of capture will claim a win.
Yes they very well may do but the test is aimed at people who haven't already made up their minds and are wondering 'what the state of the art' is and allow people to make an informed decision about the differences between LF film capture of MFDB capture.
Tim