Backing prints

[Charles Twist]

Hello,
I was wondering if I could have the general consensus on how best to frame prints. The purpose is to frame a print durably. The no-acid rule is well known and I presume it has some basis in fact. What about backing the print? Is it a good or a bad idea to layer or laminate card or styro-foam on the back in order to give it more rigidity? Without the backing, the print tends to sag and wrinkle. With the backing, you expose the print to whatever is in the backing and the glue. Do folk here have a cunning way of attaching the print to the matte? If a backing card is used, what would you recommend to bind the print and the board?
Any advice on these issues is welcome.
Thank you,
Charles

[DJ]

ooh, this is a can of worms. There's so many different ways..

Naturally as you say, neutral pH materials and adhesives are a must, and there are plenty to choose from, I buy tape and framing materials from :

http://www.framersequipment.co.uk/

the self-peeling double sided adhesive tape gun is bloody marvelous

I currently buy my mount-board and foamcore from local suppliers, but would like to find a better ( read cheaper ) bulk supplier.

I believe there are two main different ways, "dry mounting" and "cold/hot mounting", though I'm no expert.

For smaller stuff, dry mounting is often used, up to about 20"x24", using "t-hinges", which is tape stuck to the back of the print at the top, sticky side facing forwards, with half overlapping. More tape then stuck sticky side down over the exposed tape, holding it down to the foamcore or backing board, so, a T shape in tape. If space allows, corner holders will make it more secure from jolting during shipping for example. The theory being that the weight of the print should keep it flat. I'm sure there are other cold mounting methods as well.

I would prefer to use foamcore back, and double mount on the front, however, this creates quite a bit of thickness, and the rebate in many/most frame mouldings just isn't deep enough to allow it

For bigger stuff, I believe "cold-mounting" is used, but I'm not entirely sure what this phrase encompasses, I have a feeling though that it means sticking down the whole print to the backing board, by some method or adhesive.

I have ( for some projects that I don't particular care too much about messing up ), used a similar method. I used 3M photo mount spray adhesive to coat a piece of foamcore, and stick a large (16x20) print down to it. It certainly works, but there are things to watch out for....

Firstly, and rather obvious, make sure that nothing else gets stuck to the adhesive before you lay the print on it, and make sure the back of the print is clean. A small piece of grit or dirt or anything, will leave a big and noticeable bump of the front surface of the print. Be anal about it, double check it, and then again for good measure, they're not always visible till you put the print down.

Secondly, some that I did, have a noticeable "ripple" effect across the print, this is because I believe that my print roller with which I pressed these prints down to the adhesive is not quite centred, giving a slight undulation to the surface.

Lastly, get it right first time, because once it's down, it's staying down

I'd be interested to hear how anyone else does it, always on the lookout for better methods.

[Brian E]

Charles

We are busy today - From my days doing my own framing, there are at least 2 ways to go:-

1: Mount the print to the backing card using Archival materials - then just lay the overlay (same overall size) on top and frame obviously using glass in the frame.

2: Do not mount the print but attach it to back of overlay using only 2 small strips of archival tape so the print 'Dangles' (I'm sure there must be a technical term for this then again do not attach overlay to backing board.

This web site is very good for framing supplies ans lots of downloadable help and information www.frameco.com

Good luck

Brian

[sandeha]

I recently saw someone using little transparent triangles, just 3, to hold the print on the backing card. Worked neatly ... those triangles probably have a name, but I don't recall what it is.

[IanG]

Photo-corners

[masch]

Can of worms indeed

Archival backing card. Mount to card with acid free paper "photo corners" (Silverprint sells something nice for this). Then place matting frame over it.
Disadvantage is that you can not print to the full paper size and need to leave quite a border around the print.
Alternatives I have seen, especially with FB B&W paper are to mount the print to the matting frame with paper corners or tape, then use a "vapour barrier" behind it (Alleggedly some people use aluminium foil...). Then place a backing board behind it. Then stick in glass fronted frame.
Do not use perspex, etc as it tends to outgas over time and attack the print...
Another big issue is to ensure, that the print is not in contact with any glue directly. Again, there are archival glues that can be bought at slightly inflated costs, but still it is better avoided to stick the glue on directly.

Foamcore board, etc is a nice alternative to this slightly convoluted process described here. It has the great advantage, that you can handle the prints so much better. However, longterm stability of the stuff is still not certain. I have plastic safety glasses which are literally melting...
For large prints you may not have much of an alternative, though.

Marc

[uraniumnitrate]

My way of doing it is this

I use an ark of ticker Rives or any other 100% cotton acid free paper with smooth surface than mounting the print on it with those photo corners and back it up with 100% cotton acid free ticker cardboard. (Its cost a lot here). Those two I mount together with tape on the four corners as they are a same size after cutting it down and the top of this a final frame around the image. I use UV protective glass.
The back of the cardboard I seal with tape to the frame.

Its works nicely for prints up to 30x40cm but I do have a minimum of one inch sometimes wider white border around the image which means that the front frame hold the print nicely down.
I never use foam and acrylic type of glass however some people says its reliable but it’s just sound to chemical to me.

see a mistake and PH had been replaced with acid free. Sorry.

[David Evans]

[quote=]
...
This web site is very good for framing supplies ans lots of downloadable help and information www.frameco.com
[/quote]


I have tried this link but it takes you to a Swedish armrest company, but having Googled it think the correct link is http://www.clubframeco.com/

This seems a very good site with lots of info. Thank you.[/quote]

[Steve Bell]

Frameco are a few miles away from me, yet I've never called in to see them. My wife did when I was panicking, framing 12 prints for a local exhibition and was short of hanging wire, eyelets and tape. I only just taped up the last frame and got it to the arts centre in time. I first come across them when they were doing matt cutting workshops at the local Art in Action.

I hung the prints, sandwiched between the matt and backing. I found the worst part of framing your own prints was keeping dust out. All looked clear, then when it was taped up, dust would appear out of nowhere. Next time I'll borrow a sticky roller from work to clean the glass, its intended for cleaning the glass panels on the current aluminium Apple iMacs before reassembling.

[uraniumnitrate]

I found the worst part of framing your own prints was keeping dust out. .

Yeah I know what you mean it's a pain in the ... Isn't it. My sollution where that yellow skin from the deer. (don't know the english name for it) but anyway there is two type the one thick and the thin one they selling here. That works with a little cleaning agent than a little air but have many times lifted out the whole thing anyway!

[Richard Childs]

I have a gallery here in Scotland and mount/frame about 1500 prints per year so have tried lots of different methods. There is abook available called Framing Photographs available from Lion Picture Framing ( Birmingham/ London/ Mail Order/ Online).

To clean the glass use an ammonia based cleaner many of which boast anti static qualities, i use Lion shine from the above supplier and what they call 'Rag in a bag' to polish. Use a soft paintbrush to remove dust where it is apparent but there is no better method than being prepared by airdusting your work area before you start. That said it often takes 5 to 10 minutes to get the specks out, especially on a larger print.

Foam core backing can be bought with a self adhesive coating but I do not bother with prints up to 15x12" as I print on 308gsm photo rag which has no reflective quality to show movement in the paper.

Remember that paper 'breathes', expanding and contracting in it's space. Because of this only tape the top edge with a hinge mount to allow movement in all directions away from this edge. I then attach my double mount to a foamcore back using double sided tape around the outer edge and also just outside the printed paper to ensure that the mount and print don't move apart and create unsightly gaps arounf the image.

hope this is of help.