Newbie B/W processing question

[robinb]

Hi

A few questions about film processing
I'm new to LF and film generally in recent times anyway

I am just finding my feet and trying lots of things
If I use different b/w films can they all be processed the same at the likes of Peak
At the moment I have a box of HP5,FP4,Tmax 100 & 400, Arcos
and some Era 100 from china from ebay

The Era says to process in D76 - is this what Peak would use
I'm not ready to process myself and feel that there are still plenty of professionals out there to do it for me
Doubtless I will get into it later

Will it be OK to place a couple of sheets of each into box and send off
or should I somehow keep them separate
they all have notches but I have no idea of darkroom practice

if they need to be kept apart is it possible to buy film boxs and black bags
my boxs are all 25/50 sheets and I don't have any spare boxs as I only shoot 2/3 at a time

thanks for any help
Robin
London

[Joanna Carter]

Hi Robin

Most films do need different development times for the diffferent types; e.g. in Ilford DD-X, Ilford Delta 100 needs 12mins whilst Fuji Acros requires 8mins 30secs.

If you send film to a labs, you would need to send it in identifiable packaging so that they would know which film is which.

As to buying boxes or bags, I don't know where you can get such; most people keep the original packaging and send it off in that, asking the labs to return the packaging.

But, why don't you consider DIY; it really isn't all that difficult.

I use a CombiPlan tank (using a dark tent to load it) in my kitchen and the whole process takes less than half an hour for six sheets of film. I also costs less than a lab.

[IanG]

Most labs will process the films in the same developer for a standardised time, regardless of make, type etc. It's not economic to process separately for different times unless they charge premium prices.

In practice this isn't normally a problem, only Fomapan films require significantly different development times.

As Joanna says it's far better to do your own. Jobo made 5x4 reels for their tanks, I have a couple of 2000 series tanks and each takes two reels holding 6 films, so I regularly process a dozen sheets at a time.

Ian

[Keith Tapscott]

Hi

A few questions about film processing
I'm new to LF and film generally in recent times anyway

I am just finding my feet and trying lots of things
If I use different b/w films can they all be processed the same at the likes of PeakAt the moment I have a box of HP5,FP4,Tmax 100 & 400, Arcos
and some Era 100 from china from ebay

The Era says to process in D76 - is this what Peak would use
I'm not ready to process myself and feel that there are still plenty of professionals out there to do it for me
Doubtless I will get into it later

Will it be OK to place a couple of sheets of each into box and send off
or should I somehow keep them separate
they all have notches but I have no idea of darkroom practise

if they need to be kept apart is it possible to buy film boxes and black bags
my box's are all 25/50 sheets and I don't have any spare box's as I only shoot 2/3 at a time

thanks for any help
Robin
London

I assume you are referring to `PEAK IMAGING`. As long as you tell them which film stock you are using, then they should get processed properly. You could phone them to check and also ask them to send you some light-proof black bags that photo papers come in, so you can send your films by post. From visiting their website, PEAK IMAGING use Kodak XTol developer as standard.

[DJ]

Assuming one had no developing equipment at all... and no knowledge of what is needed ( i.e. me )...

What equipment/supplies would be needed to develop BW film ( say Ilford Delta 100 ) at home, in small quantities?

Combiplan tank?
Something for washing?
Clock

What chemicals?

What about drying? How do you do that?

Any advice appreciated, I really don't know how to do this or what would be needed.

[Joanna Carter]

Assuming one had no developing equipment at all... and no knowledge of what is needed ( i.e. me )...

What equipment/supplies would be needed to develop BW film ( say Ilford Delta 100 ) at home, in small quantities?

Combiplan tank?

Hi DJ, yes the Combiplan is a very good simple tank; we use one, in the kitchen, loading it in a Calumet "darkroom" changing bag.

Something for washing

For intermediate wash, we have a bottle of water at 20°; for final wash, simply put the tank under a slowly running tap, with the bottom spout open.

Clock

Simple kitchen timer that counts in minutes and seconds.

What chemicals?

Ilford DD-X, developer, stop bath and fixer

What about drying? How do you do that?

Well, the Combiplan has a film rack which, after the final wash (with wetting agent) I place on some kitchen paper, remove the top clip and gently lift the sheets so I can mop up residual water in the bottom of the rack.

Once the rack is as dry as I can get it, I slide the film back down to the bottom of the rack and use a hair dryer (which has been run for a few minutes to get rid of dust), gently wafting it from side to side to get rid of any drops of water in the exposed area of the sheets.

Finally, we hang the film on a piece of string between two cupboard handles. Since the kitchen is relatively dust-free, this seems to work acceptably well.

[Keith Tapscott]

DJ, it is very straight forward to process B&W films at home and a lot cheaper than sending to film processing labs.
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

[DJ]

For intermediate wash, we have a bottle of water at 20°; for final wash, simply put the tank under a slowly running tap, with the bottom spout open.

Ah, so a thermometer then!

Ilford DD-X, developer, stop bath and fixer

Is that four chemicals then? Forgive me, I really don't know *anything* about this. Are these chemicals concentrates? Do you dilute them? Can they be re-used, how do you know when to throw it? etc etc.

I can see Ilford DD-X Developer, but I don't see an Ilford Stop Bath. There is an Ilford Fixer though. I'm looking on Nova Darkroom's website. I really need someone to tell me exactly what I would need to buy.

Well, the Combiplan has a film rack which, after the final wash (with wetting agent)

Wetting agent? Is this another chemical?

I place on some kitchen paper, remove the top clip and gently lift the sheets so I can mop up residual water in the bottom of the rack. Once the rack is as dry as I can get it, I slide the film back down to the bottom of the rack and use a hair dryer (which has been run for a few minutes to get rid of dust), gently wafting it from side to side to get rid of any drops of water in the exposed area of the sheets.

Buy hairdryer. Check.

[DJ]

DJ, it is very straight forward to process B&W films at home and a lot cheaper than sending to film processing labs.
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

That's a very handy PDF doc! Thanks

[Joanna Carter]

Ah, so a thermometer then!

Yup, you catch on quick

Is that four chemicals then? Forgive me, I really don't know *anything* about this. Are these chemicals concentrates? Do you dilute them? Can they be re-used, how do you know when to throw it? etc etc.

Sorry, an excess of commas there.

Ilford DD-X developer diluted 1+4 (one shot, possibly two within 24hrs)
Ilford Ilfostop stop bath diluted 1+19 (reuse until indicator colour shows)
Ilford Rapid Fixer diluted 1+4 (note film area used against Ilford notes)
Ilford Ilfotol Wetting Agent diluted 1+200 possibly less to avoid foaming (one shot)

Although there is other chemistry that you can use, the DD-X is recommended for Delta 100.

Buy hairdryer. Check.

Make sure it's a variable temperature/flow so you can avoid melting the film or blowing out of the rack.

[Joanna Carter]

DJ, it is very straight forward to process B&W films at home and a lot cheaper than sending to film processing labs.
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

That's a very handy PDF doc! Thanks

Hmmm, nice to see that a hair dryer is an Ilford approved technique

One thing, I tend to use two fingers to wipe the film instead of squeegees, less chance of catching grit on the film without knowing.

[Mike M]

I've only ever used a hairdryer once and all it did was blow dust onto the negs! Never again!

[buze]

If you use a wetting agent, there shouldn't be water sticking on the film. If there is, use more wetting agent ! Just don't touch the film with /anything/ -- the wet emulsion is very fragile.

I used to follow the "2 drops of washing liquid" method of wetting, and that never worked properly. Now I use a solution of Fotoflo that is quite concentrated (like two soupspoon+ in 1L) and use that. Just be careful pouring it so it doesn't foam.
You can reuse the wetting solution quite a few times, and it gives film that are 'magic' the water literally run off it. It makes drying faster too.

[lostlandsuk]

Hi - just my two-penneth. I gave up on Ilfotol as I found it to leave a residue; it didn't happen all the time, but it did enough times to be annoying! I now use a few drops of Ecover washing up liquid, rinse the negative thoroughly under running water and then suspend the film with a plastic clothes-peg from one corner. The water gathers at the lowest point, and I use the edge of my finger held against the droplet that forms to induce the droplet off* I do this several times over a period of about 10 mins and haven't had a single streak, nor bits of airbourne crap sticking to it.
* the principle is the same as trying to get the very last drop out of a bottle of wine - hold the last drip from the bottle against the edge of your glass and more wine than one drip will roll down into the glass! Not sure what principle it is, but it was fun researching it . . . .
I must add though the greatest device in the battle of dust has to be the ioniser. I read Barry Thornton and he recommended it, and it seemed to make sense, so I dragged out a really battered old Mountain Breeze one that had been sitting in a box since the 80's and sure enough it worked marvellously. These days there are ionisers and ionisers - though I haven't bought one yet (I do intend to though) the ones by Astrid seem to be the best made.
Oh and sorry to RobinB if I've gone a bit off post here . . .home processing of LF B&W is relatively simple and cheap, as well as being more controllable. I've done all my processing on an extreme budget over the years - if you want any tips I will happily share them.
Cheers
Phil